Cross-inscribed pillar, Inis Gé Thuaidh, Co. Mayo
Co. Mayo |
Crosses & Monuments
Among the ruined stones of an old house on the island of Inis Gé Thuaidh, the northern of the two Inishkea Islands off the coast of Mayo, lies a broken pillar that carries something rarely seen on early Christian stonework: a human face.
Not a sculpted portrait, not a decorative mask, but a few incised lines that suggest eyes, a brow, a presence. Above the break in the stone, a cross potent (a cross whose four arms each end in a horizontal bar, giving it a crutch-like form) is carved into the surface, and above that a curved line, and then the face. The sequence feels almost like a diagram, moving upward through symbol and form toward something harder to name.
The art historian Françoise Henry recorded the fragment in 1951, cataloguing it as Pillar 9 in her study of new monuments from Inishkea North. She found it among loose stones on the ruined side of House B, a structure sitting atop the Bailey Mór mound. Henry described the decoration as very unusual, and the combination she identified, a cross potent beneath a curved line beneath a schematic face, does not fit neatly into the standard repertoire of early Irish pillar carvings, which more commonly feature simple incised crosses or abstract knotwork. Whether the face was meant as a devotional image, a marker of identity, or something else entirely is not recorded. The pillar is broken, so whatever lay below the cross potent is gone.
Inishkea North is uninhabited today, and reaching it requires a boat from the mainland near Belmullet. The island has a concentration of early medieval remains, and the Bailey Mór mound and its associated structures are among them. The pillar fragment, small and easy to overlook amid the general scatter of a long-abandoned settlement, rewards a close look at the upper section, where Henry's curved line and face, faint but deliberate, can still be made out.