House - 18th/19th century, Derrynamuck, Co. Wicklow

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House

House – 18th/19th century, Derrynamuck, Co. Wicklow

A small whitewashed cottage in the Wicklow hills holds a particular kind of quiet intensity.

Built from local stone and thatched in the traditional manner, the Dwyer-McAllister Cottage at Derrynamuck looks, from the outside, like something that has simply always been there. What makes it unusual is that it very nearly wasn't: the building was gutted by fire and left as a ruin for close to a hundred and fifty years before anyone thought to put it back together.

The winter of 1799 was when the cottage earned its place in the historical record. Michael Dwyer, one of the more tenacious survivors of the United Irish rebellion, was sheltering here when British forces moved to surround it. Dwyer managed to escape across the snow-covered mountains, a feat that has since become one of the more durable stories of the post-1798 period. The cottage was later destroyed by fire, and the ruin sat largely undisturbed until the late 1940s, when it was restored to something approaching its original form as a monument. A further round of repair and re-roofing followed in 1992, bringing it to the condition it holds today as a National Monument in state care.

The building is a reasonable example of the kind of vernacular architecture that once covered rural Ireland, modest in scale and material, using whatever stone was at hand and finishing the walls with whitewash inside and out. It sits in County Wicklow, in the upland townland of Derrynamuck, a part of the county that Dwyer knew well enough to use as refuge for years after the rebellion collapsed elsewhere.

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