Holy well, Cahersherkin, Co. Clare
Co. Clare |
Holy Sites & Wells
On a south-facing slope tucked into a haggard, a small enclosure in Cahersherkin, County Clare, contains a holy well so precisely arranged that even the approach route is considered sacred.
The well is dedicated to St Behan and is said to provide a cure for skin disorders, a claim that places it in the long Irish tradition of healing wells where particular saints were believed to hold curative power over specific ailments. What makes this one quietly arresting is the density of devotional detail compressed into a very small space, and the degree to which the surrounding landscape has been shaped, and defended, by the logic of pilgrimage.
The well itself is horseshoe-shaped, just 1.2 metres by 0.8 metres, open to the south and bounded by a low drystone wall. A single step leads down to the brackish water. Above the enclosing wall sits a glass-fronted cement-block cabinet with a stone roof, the kind of improvised domestic shrine that recurs at Irish holy wells, here housing statues of the Blessed Virgin Mary and the Sacred Heart alongside Lourdes holy water bottles. A recessed shelf beneath holds mostly empty ink bottles. The well occupies the south-west angle of a triangular cairn, which functions as a penitential station, a stopping point in a prescribed circuit of prayer. A path traces the outside of the cairn to a second feature: the Saint's seat, four blocks cemented together and capped with a naturally scalloped stone that is said to resemble a tractor seat. A second penitential station stands nearby, a D-shaped stone leaning northward, its south face bearing what appears to be crowbar damage. Local tradition holds that when an attempt was once made to extend a lime tree plantation northward, towards the route of the round, the newly planted saplings were found pulled from the ground the following morning, taken as a sign that St Behan was protecting the integrity of the circuit.
The prescribed route of the round followed a specific path: approaching from the west along the laneway, turning south past the standing stone, then turning west again to cross a stile before reaching the well. That choreography of movement, the turning, crossing, and approaching, is itself part of the devotional act at such sites, and the physical layout of this enclosure still reflects it clearly.